Back in the good ol' U S of A after six weeks of kava drinking and general tomfoolery in paradise. I wasn't very active here or anywhere on the interwebs over the last ten days or so due to slow internet connection in Vanuatu. So here's a little update:
I pretty much went straight to Tanna after my time in Tonga. I was hoping to talk to people there about the kava export industry and possibly find an exporter for the famed Tanna kava. Tanna kava is well known throughout Vanuatu for its potency and quite a few kava origination stories say that kava actually comes from Tanna originally. I went to kava bars and talked to kava farmers, but I'm sad to say I had my first strikeout of the trip. Unfortunately, Cyclone Pam destroyed most of the Tanna kava while it basically sat on top of those poor islanders for about three days. They're still growing kava for local use, and it's damn strong, but nobody is exporting Tanna kava at the moment. I did my best to get the word out, telling growers and locals how much people are paying for good kava (per kg., kava farmers do pretty well, compared to other crops, even when exporting or selling to an exporter at wholesale prices), and encouraging more growth. We'll see if that means anything to them in the next few years. I did have one "first" in Tanna. I saw my first
Piper Wichmanii plants. They look just like kava, but a little "off". They were flowering like crazy with long red flowers all over them.
I also got to check out the very active Mt. Yasur volcano which explodes and rumbles and shoots lava high into the air. Really amazing and definitely the "tourist" highlight of the trip.
After Tanna, I spent some time in Port Vila with one of my exporters. He's a Ni Van guy and has some great insight into the industry from a ground level perspective. I saw his facility where he re-cleans and re-dries the kava he gets from the farmers, and I was happy to see it is looking quite advanced compared to most kava processing in the pacific. I also spent some time with another couple guys I know in the kava industry that work out of Vila. They showed me their facility where they process a kava "resin" from green kava. It's about 35% kl and is meant to be used in other products like chocolates, juices, etc. They gave me a couple kgs. to play with after enjoying the Vila nakamal scene.
*As an aside- Jesus. I thought we made kava strong at Bula Kava House in Portland. I've drank kava in Vanuatu before but I forgot about how ridiculously potent it is there. Nothing compares to green root kava at a kava bar in Vanuatu. I went cross eyed on more than one occasion.
At the end of my trip I went to another island to visit my other Vanuatu exporter. This guy's processing is the only western standards kava processing plant in the world that I've seen. It's a sight to see. Unfortunately, he only allows people to access very limited areas because his drying and pounding techniques are "top secret". This is the one exporter I know of that buys green kava from the farmers and processes and exports himself. He does this to ensure quality and because once kava is dried, it's nearly impossible to ensure it's noble. He says even green, every once in a while a grower will try to sneak in some tudei but you can tell when you hack into the stump. He said that tudei is hard and is like chopping into a hardwood table, and that noble is much softer. He explained that tudei will also ooze yellow from the "ring" inside the stump, whereas a nice noble is white. The ground level, intimate kava knowledge this guy has blows my mind. When you've been working with as much kava as he has for as long as he has, from planting to powder, the knowledge level is hard to match.
After six weeks in Kava Land, I was ready to go home, and just arrived yesterday evening. It was a very successful trip. I learned a lot, talked to some
true experts, and found some amazing kava to share with the world. Our Taveuni kava is already in transit, 'Ava Fagaloa is in process and should be available before Christmas, and I'm just working out the details for the amazing Tongan kava I found. You all will have some awesome kava to try and review very shortly.
I would like to say that I was both encouraged and discouraged by the state of kava in the pacific on multiple levels. Firstly, it's disheartening to hear the stories of storms and drought that have affected these farmers so heavily. Most have moved on to grow crops that mature and produce more quickly so they'll be okay, but kava pays better than most of those crops, and when the kava is planted
among taro, yams, paw paw, etc. it can help them diversify and still make good money. Unfortunately though, the vast kava fields and relatively high kava yields from the south pacific will take some time to return, if they ever do. The good thing is that they're planting better kava now, and less tudei in Vanuatu, so if and when stocks go back up, we'll have a higher percentage of really good quality kava hitting the market.
I also want to take this opportunity to encourage kava customers to demand that the people they buy from test their kavas for chemotype/nobility, but also for microbiological contaminants. At Bula Kava House we've been very selective about the growers and processors we choose to do business with, but often, kava is processed in manners that would get them shut down in North America or Europe. Cleaned in bad water, kava being chopped up on dirty floors with insects and pets freely walking around, etc. Yes, kava does have some antibacterial properties, but they're limited and since the testing is a legal requirement by the FDA anyway, better safe than sorry.
Okay, that's all. Now pictures.
Some local Ni-Van kids in Tanna with Mt. Yasur crater in the background. They love having their picture taken.
Me at a Tanna Nakamal with Jack.
Drinking kava in the traditional way at the nakamal in Tanna. You get your shell, head off to the side and drink it facing out. No clapping or cheers. Just chug, spit a bunch, go sit down under the tree, talk a little bit, and spit a lot more. Probably the strongest shell I've ever had.
Kava processing in Vanuatu. This is the first quality check of the green kava. Check out those HUGE stumps. They're from six and seven year old Borogu plants. The employees chop into the stump with a machete. If it sinks in easily and is white inside with a ring that looks a certain way they knows it's Borogu. Borogoru and Melo Melo also look a certain way inside, and any tudei has a certain feel when you chop into it and look at the flesh inside. If a quality checker finds something they think is tudei, they show it to the boss to confirm, then it is tossed and the grower that brought it isn't paid.